Life has taken an unexpected turn when one morning you wake up and a year has gone by and your life is completely different. Here I am on this island ripping wet sticky snow and rocking cut backs on waves. Edmonton’s potential for anything great has come to an abrupt halt once you leave that little shit hole. The world seems brighter when you have mountains oceans and rad wave breaks all within a short rip in the car.
It makes no difference your cash flow or your job its all about the community and the people out here. Going out to Tofino for the day you will want to stay a lifetime. You will meet the most radical people who have lived a certain lifestyle their whole life, with no signs of letting up. Dudes are in there 60's growing the pot in their Volkswagen Westfalia with their collection of wetsuits and surfboard that have endless stories if you got into it with these dudes he would drink you under the table and still be the first guy in his wetsuit paddling out to the breaking point. It gives a guy a new perspective on life, these old dudes are out here surfing, smoking and having beach fires when most dudes their age are worried about their pensions and planning their estate. Fuck the dude has a hippie van and enough surfboards that he will never have to buy a new one. If that’s not planning for your retirement then I don’t know what is.
Going surfing is the raddest experience of a lifetime. If you get a chance to go, fucking go or else you will be that loser all old and wrinkly planning your shit waiting to die. The first day you catch that first wave you are hooked. I find myself thinking less and less of knee deep pow, but thinking more of perfect right breaks and when ill be sleeping in my car to catch early morning swells. The meaning of life goes out the window and you feel Zen once you get into the wet suit and are sitting out there in the line up watching the sets, just waiting for the perfect wave, and hoping that each set is going to be the best of the day.
Every wave is different and you will never get the same wave twice so each ride is an adaptation of the way the ocean is swelling. Every ride is an art you are carving into the ocean leaving behind some whitewash and a few fist pumps. So live your life and shred some waves, fuck being an old dried up loser and buy a fucking van, stock up on planters and meet me on the beach.
Peace and love
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